[Paleopsych] 'Diane Arbus Revelations': The Profound Vision of Diane Arbus: Flaws in Beauty, Beauty in Flaws
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Arts > Art & Design > Photography Review | 'Diane
Arbus Revelations': The Profound Vision of Diane Arbus: Flaws in Beauty,
Beauty in Flaws
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/03/11/arts/design/11kimm.html
March 11, 2005
PHOTOGRAPHY REVIEW | 'DIANE ARBUS REVELATIONS'
The Profound Vision of Diane Arbus: Flaws in Beauty, Beauty in Flaws
By [1]MICHAEL KIMMELMAN
A TEENAGER in a straw boater, with big apricot-shaped ears, thin lips
and matching bow tie, gazes out from the photograph, whose date is
1967. He is standing beside, and perhaps he's holding (his hands are
out of the frame, so it's hard to tell) an American flag. He wears a
bowtie-shaped flag pin, too, with buttons affixed on each lapel. "Bomb
Hanoi," one says.
Presumably the audience Diane Arbus imagined for this picture would
have regarded the boy, if not as another of her "freaks," then as
somebody different from them. Arbus once said that she wanted to
photograph "evil," about which her daughter, Doon, ventured that what
Arbus really meant was that she wanted to photograph what was
"forbidden." "She was determined," Doon Arbus explained, "to reveal
what others had been taught to turn their backs on." Or you might say
she wanted to find the humanity in people that others shunned.
A contrarian, Arbus could do the opposite - she could revel in flaws
in the admired and celebrated. But this boy's gentle, open face, his
obvious vulnerability, convey the tenderness and bittersweet
melancholy that are Arbus's finest modes of expression, the emotions
that reveal themselves after her best pictures leave their first
impression, which is often alarm, distrust or unease.
"Everybody has this thing where they need to look one way, but they
come out looking another way, and that's what people observe," she
wrote. "You see someone on the street, and essentially what you notice
about them is the flaw." While spotting the flaws, much of the time
Arbus transformed them into gifts.
Her powerful and moving retrospective, the first full-dress overview
in more than three decades and, with the cooperation of the Arbus
estate, the most extensive ever organized, has finally arrived at the
Metropolitan Museum. It opened more than a year ago at the San
Francisco Museum of Modern Art, trailing in its wake the expected
arguments about her work. Last year a separate exhibition at the Grey
Art Gallery proffered some of Arbus's commercial work, for Esquire
magazine; it included a cache of previously unseen pictures she shot
for an affluent Upper East Side family on commission. Tendentious but
instructive, that comparatively smallish event revealed what Arbus did
when she didn't have her heart in her work. Arbus without heart was
heartless.
By contrast, this retrospective proves that her memorable work, which
she did, on the whole, not for hire but for herself, was all about
heart - a ferocious, audacious heart. It transformed the art of
photography (Arbus is everywhere, for better and worse, in the work of
artists today who make photographs), and it lent a fresh dignity to
the forgotten and neglected people in whom she invested so much of
herself. In the process, she captured a moment, the anxious 1950's and
60's, and - this probably applies as much to Arbus as to any other
photographer of the second half of the last century - she captured New
York.
Appropriately, she is given the royal treatment at the Met. Put
together by Sandra S. Phillips and Elisabeth Sussman in San Francisco,
the exhibition is here laid out with leisurely amplitude by Jeff
Rosenheim, an associate curator at the Met. Photographs sprawl through
huge galleries that on earlier occasions featured Ingres and El Greco.
Rooms are specially set aside for letters, cameras, books and other
Arbus memorabilia - chapels of relics, maddeningly dark, dense and
theatrical but implying the extent to which her photography was
connected with her interests in literature, history, art and the
photographic traditions that encompassed figures like August Sander,
Walker Evans, Weegee and Arbus's teacher, Lisette Model (a Model show
is now at Ricco/Maresca in Chelsea; review, Page 39).
With more than 175 pictures, the Met retrospective fleshes out that
limited core of Arbus photographs canonized by the landmark show at
the Museum of Modern Art in 1972, a year after her suicide, at 48. By
that time she had become a kind of legend and the debate had
polarized: Arbus as a compassionate champion of the neglected versus
Arbus as exploitative, a narcissist of morbid eloquence. Or as Susan
Sontag infamously put it, the photographer of "a single village":
"only, as it happens the idiot village is America."
Arbus could be both, in retrospect. In another photograph from 1967,
she turns a different patriotic young man brandishing his flag into a
rabid, pimply fool, leering into the merciless glare of her camera's
flash. But even that cruel picture, with his intense, almost
otherworldly expression, has an intimacy that breaches the customary
space separating subject and viewer, insisting that the people who
look at it confront, close up, somebody whom they might not otherwise
have met or wished to meet.
This was Arbus's project from the beginning. Her work derived partly
from Sander's sweeping chronicle of German society but was narrower in
scope and less documentary. Arbus looked for secret worlds and the
uncanny. Her ambition was both novel and also novelistic. She became a
kind of magic realist of photography, and it's no wonder, early on,
that she photographed the inside of movie houses with their smoky
projector beams and glimmering screens, casting the audience in
silhouette - dream palaces where light became fiction.
At around the same time, she was sneaking her camera, as Evans had
done in the subway, onto a sundeck at Coney Island to photograph naked
women sunbathing. She caught a mother in a park carrying her young
son, a ready-made Pietà, and she snapped a woman on the street with
her eyes closed, like Cartier-Bresson's Spanish boy tossing a ball in
the air, as if enraptured. A girl in a cap stares out at us from yet
another picture, with the urgency we read into the expression of the
woman in "Bishop by the Sea," who looks possessed in her shiny gown
and cheap tiara.
If the proper word isn't spirituality then it's grace. Arbus touches
her favorite subjects with grace. It's in the spread-arm pose of the
sword swallower, in the tattooed human pincushion, like St. Sebastian,
and in the virginal waitress at the nudist camp, with her apron and
order pad and her nicked shin. And it's famously in the naked couple
in the woods, like Adam and Eve after the Fall.
Above all it's in the young Brooklyn family going for a Sunday outing,
a heartbreaking photograph, which nearly harks back to Velázquez's
"Meninas" or Goya. Mother and father are Elizabeth Taylor and James
Dean impersonators, she looking haunted, he staring warily ahead,
gently cupping the hand of his retarded son. As Arbus said, everybody
concocts versions of themselves for the world, which the world sees
through, and in the end we see ourselves in how we see each other.
Therein is the delicate tonal balance necessary for Arbus's
sensational art to elevate her subjects. She was a tonal craftsman,
we're reminded. She achieves phenomenal elegance with the elderly
woman in a turban - it's her version of a Rembrandt - the woman in
half-shadow, crosslegged on her couch with a dangling cigarette, light
pouring in from windows on either side.
Likewise, look at what she manages with the familiar triplets in their
bedroom: at the periphery, the dizzy pattern of the wallpaper playing
against the pattern of the bedspread; the girls physically linked, and
our vision slowed down, as we focus on the center of the picture, by
the continuous black and white swaths of matching skirts and blouses
and by the equally calm but slightly different expressions on the
faces.
And then there is the naked man being a woman, a Madonna turned in
contrapposto, flanked by parted curtains, with his penis hidden
between his legs. The curtains are stained, the marks from his
brassiere and panties, which he has clearly just taken off, still
show; a Schaefer beer can is on the floor and his bed is heaped with
junk.
But he seems at ease with himself and with Arbus, enough to have let
her into his home. "The farther afield you go, the more you are going
home," Arbus also wrote. It is, she added, "as if the gods put us down
with a certain arbitrary glee in the wrong place and what we seek is
who we had really ought to be."
Her subjects, like that naked man and the circus performers, had
already "passed their test in life," she added. "Most people go
through life dreading they'll have a traumatic experience. Freaks are
born with their trauma. They're aristocrats."
Which explains her notorious late photographs of women at a home for
the mentally retarded. Everybody notes Goya, of course. But these are
loving pictures, and discomfort with them is not shared by the women,
who clearly enjoy themselves. The world is full of wondrous things, if
our eyes are open enough to recognize them, these photographs imply,
and in the end we are all drawn together by our different flaws.
"The world is a Noah's ark on the sea of eternity containing all the
endless pairs of things, irreconcilable and inseparable," Arbus said
in a letter to a friend. "And heat will always long for cold and the
back for the front and smiles for tears and mutt for jeff and no for
yes with the most unutterable nostalgia there is."
References
1. http://query.nytimes.com/search/query?ppds=bylL&v1=MICHAEL%20KIMMELMAN&fdq=19960101&td=sysdate&sort=newest&ac=MICHAEL%20KIMMELMAN&inline=nyt-per
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