[Paleopsych] Economist: Luxury: Inconspicuous consumption
Premise Checker
checker at panix.com
Tue Jan 10 14:18:03 UTC 2006
Luxury: Inconspicuous consumption
http://www.economist.com/business/PrinterFriendly.cfm?story_id=5323772
Dec 20th 2005 | LONDON, NEW YORK AND PARIS
Now that luxury has gone mass market, how are the super-rich to flaunt
their wealth?
THE recently reopened Louis Vuitton store on the Champs Elysées is a
deliberate exercise in democratic luxury. On its new, opulent art deco
terraces, elegant French ladies of a certain age--the epitome of the
traditional consumer of luxury fashion--rub padded shoulders with
jeans-and-tee-shirt sporting younger women who could be their
daughters, or, just as easily, rap singers or a gaggle of British
working-class hen-weekenders.
What traditional buyers of luxury make of their nouveau co-consumers
they are, of course, too civilised to say. But it seems unlikely that
they consider Louis Vuitton's still-exquisite handbags, shoes and
other indulgences to be quite as exclusive as before. If they continue
to shop there--and the store's owner, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis
Vuitton, thinks it can extend its brand to a broader market without
losing its existing customers--it may no longer be because its
products are a signal of exalted social status.
In this respect, LVMH's goods are by no means unique. Products and
services that were once the preserve of a very wealthy few--from
designer handbags to fast cars, bespoke tailoring and domestic
servants--are increasingly becoming accessible, if not to everyone,
then certainly to millions of people around the world. This may appall
killjoy economists such as Robert Frank, the author a few years ago of
a book condemning "Luxury Fever" in this new "era of excess". But it
is arguably even more upsetting to those super-rich folk who have long
been able to afford luxury, and may in one crucial respect even regard
it as a necessity.
As Thorstein Veblen noted over a century ago in "The Theory of the
Leisure Class"--the book in which he coined the phrase "conspicuous
consumption"--spending lavishly on expensive but essentially wasteful
goods and services is "evidence of wealth" and the "failure to consume
in due quantity and quality becomes a mark of inferiority and
demerit." But in the 21st century, "being a conspicuous consumer is
getting harder and harder", says James Lawson of Ledbury Research, a
firm that advises luxury businesses on market trends. What does a
billionaire have to do to get noticed nowadays?
Luxury for the people
A stone's throw from the Louis Vuitton store, the classical grandeur
of the five-star Four Seasons George V hotel was the perfect Old World
venue for the World Luxury Congress in October. But all the talk at
the gathering was of the potentially lucrative opportunities presented
by new consumers of luxury, in rich and emerging economies alike.
Being a millionaire, for instance, is becoming commonplace. In 2004
there were 8.3m households worldwide with assets of at least $1m, up
by 7% on a year earlier, according to the latest annual survey by
Merrill Lynch and Capgemini. The newly wealthy are often desperate to
affirm their status by conspicuously consuming the favoured brands of
the already rich. In developed countries this can be seen, in its
extreme form, in the rise of "Bling"--jewellery, diamonds and other
luxuries sported initially by rappers--and Britain's unsophisticated
Burberry-loving "chavs". (Burberry is considered unusually successful
at tapping a broader market. But even it now understands that not
every new customer is desirable: in January it withdrew its
distinctive checked baseball caps because of their popularity with
chavs.)
The number of luxury buyers in the developed world is also being
swelled by two other trends. First, consumers are increasingly
adopting a "trading up, trading down" shopping strategy. Many
traditional mid-market shoppers are abandoning middle-of-the-range
products for a mix of lots of extremely cheap goods and a few genuine
luxuries that they would once have thought out of their price league.
Alongside this "selective extravagance" is the growth of "fractional
ownership": time-shares in luxury goods and services formerly
available only to those paying full price. Fractional ownership first
got noticed when firms such as NetJets started selling access to
private jets. It has since spread to luxury resorts, fast cars and
much more. In America, From Bags to Riches--"better bags, better
value"--lets less-well-off people rent designer handbags. In Britain,
Damon Hill, a former racing driver, has launched P1 International. A
£2,500 ($4,300) joining fee, plus annual membership of £13,750, buys
around 50-70 driving days a year in cars ranging from a Range Rover
Sport to a Bentley or a Ferrari.
As a result, "the price of entry for much of what traditionally was
available to the top 0.001% is now far lower", says Mr Lawson, who
notes the sorry implications for a would-be conspicuous consumer: "How
do I know if the guy who drives past me in a Ferrari owns it or is
just renting it for the weekend?"
Demand for luxury is also soaring from emerging economies such as
Russia, India, Brazil and China. Antoine Colonna, an analyst at
Merrill Lynch, estimates that last year Chinese consumers already
accounted for 11% of the worldwide revenues of luxury-goods firms,
with most of their buying done outside mainland China. He forecasts
that by 2014, they will have overtaken both American and Japanese
consumers, becoming the world's leading luxury shoppers, yielding 24%
of global revenues.
These emerging consumers have a big appetite for the top luxury
brands--and the owners of those brands are increasingly keen to
oblige. Russia is producing today's most determinedly conspicuous
consumers. Roman Abramovich, the best-known oligarch not in jail, has
conspicuously set new standards in buying mansions, ski resorts and
soccer teams.
Veblen revisited
For the already rich, strategies such as splashing out on ever bigger
houses, longer yachts or getting special treatment from luxury-goods
firms does not contribute much marginal conspicuousness. Meanwhile,
the list of new ways to get noticed by the masses is shrinking fast.
Even space tourism--impressive in 2001, when Dennis Tito paid Russia
$20m to visit the International Space Station--will soon be humdrum.
As it gets ever harder to consume conspicuously, are some traditional
luxury consumers giving up trying? According to Virginia Postrel,
author of "The Substance of Style", conspicuous consumption is much
more important when people are not far from being poor, as in today's
emerging economies. In developed countries, in particular, "status is
always there, but the shift in the balance is towards enjoyment". For
instance, the first thing the newly super-rich tend to buy is a
private plane. But that, she says, is "not so much about
distinguishing themselves from the masses as not being stuck with them
in a security line".
In his new book, "Hypermodern Times", Gilles Lipovetsky, the favourite
philosopher of LVMH's boss, Bernard Arnaud, has coined the term
"hyperconsumption". This is consumption which pervades ever more
spheres of life and which encourages people to consume for their own
pleasure rather than to enhance their social status. H.L. Mencken made
the same point more crisply in a critique of Veblen in 1919: "Do I
prefer kissing a pretty girl to kissing a charwoman because even a
janitor may kiss a charwoman--or because the pretty girl looks better,
smells better and kisses better?"
Yet rather than abandoning status anxiety, the way the rich seek to
display status may simply be getting more complex. As inequality grows
again in rich countries, some of the very rich worry about consumption
that is so conspicuous to the masses that it provokes them to try to
take their wealth away. Some car-industry experts blame weak sales of
the latest luxury limousines on this fear.
As well as traditional conspicuous consumption and "self-treating",
Ledbury Research identifies two other motives that are driving buying
by the rich: connoisseurship and being an "early adopter". Both are
arguably consumption that is conspicuous only to those you really want
to impress. Connoisseurs are people whom their friends respect for
their deep knowledge of, say, fine wine or handmade Swiss watches.
Early adopters are those who are first with a new technology. Silicon
Valley millionaires currently impress their friends by buying an
amphibian vehicle to avoid the commuter traffic on the Bay Bridge.
Several millionaires have already paid $50,000 a go to clone their pet
cat.
In America, at least, says Marian Salzman, a leading trendspotter, the
focus of conspicuous consumption is increasingly on getting your
children into the best schools and universities. Harvard may be
today's ultimate luxury good. Getting into the right clubs is also as
important a social statement as ever. America's young wealthy may
currently be seen at the Core Club in New York: membership is by
invitation only, with a joining fee of $55,000 plus annual dues of
$12,000.
But perhaps the true symbol of exalted status in the era of mass
luxury is conspicuous non-consumption. This is not just the growing
tendency of the very rich to dress scruffily and drive beaten-up cars,
as described by David Brooks in "Bobos in Paradise". It is showing
that you have more money than you know how to spend. So, for example,
philanthropy is increasingly fashionable, and multi-billion-dollar
endowments such as the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation are certainly
conspicuous. However, since the new philanthropists are keen to
demonstrate that their giving produces results, this does not quite
meet Veblen's threshold of being a complete waste of money. So the
laurels surely go to those who are so wealthy that they are willing to
buy adverts encouraging the state to tax them. Kudos, then, to those
conspicuously non-consuming wealthy American opponents of recent
efforts to abolish estate taxes: George Soros, Bill Gates senior (the
father of the world's richest man) and Warren Buffett.
More information about the paleopsych
mailing list